Small visit (invited) to the restaurant «Les Fables de la Fontaine» (1 Michelin star), to discover the creative cuisine of the youngest star in France.
If there is a restaurant that has been talked about since the beginning of the year, it is the Fables de la Fontaine. The restaurant starred for 10 years, made its revolution in 2015: the new slum of the place, Julia Sedefdjian, succeeded Anthony David last year, and decided to change everything.
She reviewed the menu and prices, offering cheaper dishes, a refined cuisine but focused on more accessible products: from the place rather than cod, lean rather than bar… The restaurant has also been refurbished: works, kitchen relocation, expansion… It is the whole positioning of the restaurant that has been revised, for a slightly less stuffy atmosphere and more accessible cuisine. And despite this, in 2016, the decision of the Michelin falls: The Fables keep their star, and Julia Sedefdjian, at 21, becomes the youngest star of France (and one of the 17 women rewarded by the guide).
So inevitably, when Les Fables de la Fontaine kindly offered us an invitation to come and taste this new card, we accepted with enthusiasm.
Les Fables de la Fontaine: starred restaurant Paris, 7th
Rendez-vous donc aux Fables de la Fontaine, Paris, 7ème, pour essayer la cuisine de la plus jeune étoilée de France.
Première impression : les travaux de la salle sont plutôt une réussite. La déco, sobre, toute en bois et en tons clairs est assez stylée. Les serveurs sont plutôt aux petits soins, sympas, sans être trop formels.
Et au niveau de la carte, l’impression est également plutôt sympa. Au déjeuner on peut choisir un menu à 25 euros (entrée et plat), ou préférer déguster les plats signatures de la chef qui sont à la carte. Le soir, un menu « carte blanche » à 70 euros, et la carte toujours disponible. L’offre est plutôt orientée sur les produits de la mer (la spécialité de la jeune chef), mais on y trouve aussi des plats de viande appétissants.
Le restaurant Les Fables de la Fontaine, dans l’assiette
On our side, we went to try this nice table for lunch.
In the appetizer section, the restaurant offers a variety of small delicacies: bread, fennel butter, foccacia, small fish soup with croutons… A good way to get an appetite before attacking the heart of the meal.
As a starter, we find the emblematic dish of Julia Sedefdjian, crispy egg, leek dressing and smoked haddock. Already, technically we feel that the young chef has some under the pedal:
perfect egg, coated with a crispy shell (a bit like the crispy shell egg that we had prepared), just dripping… The crispy leeks as you should, and the haddock with a slightly smoky taste with the perfect texture. A great dish!
In the entry register, you can also choose the sot-l'y-laisse caramelized with white asparagus and garlic confit, or the pissaladière de Rouget, with its octopus and pickled vegetables.
At the flat level, we opt for the place aioli, a dish with strong Mediterranean accents, with its fragrant garlic cream, beet puree and its small vegetables in olive oil. Nice dressage that makes up for the lack of freshness of the dish. You can also choose the dish of the day: tagliatelle with pistou (again the Mediterranean) with clams. Or other variations around the fish: lean and green curry shells, ray wing and citrus and spinach emulsion. But you can also let your fork wander through the meats: filet mignon in an almond crust, braised beef cheeks with pak choi and Panisse.
And desserts are no exception, the chef also has a pastry training. Breton shortbread-like lemon tart and tangerine sorbet (here in half portion because I was really no longer hungry), pretty in addition to being fresh and delicate. An excellent dessert, really! But you can also taste a coconut banana soufflé and coconut sorbet, or a panna cotta with speculoos, coffee and tonka… Technique and beautiful combinations of flavours.
The restaurant Les Fables de la Fontaine: reviews, info and prices
The Fables de la Fontaine have changed a lot this year. Some people deplore the change in the atmosphere (less windy), the evolution of the dishes towards a tendency rather «Bistrot de Haute vol». But Les Fables remains a good gastronomic plan: a 25 euro menu, made by a seasoned team in a star establishment, is rather rare, especially in the neighbourhood. If you want to taste elaborate dishes, not too expensive, made by a talented chef, all in a heckling and warm atmosphere, it is a great address!
Reviews: good creative bistro (guest)
Address: 131 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris,
Tel: 01 44 18 37 55
Price:
The lunch menu at 25 euros,
Starters around 15 euros, Dishes around 15, desserts around 10.
Carte Blanche 70 euros.
The glass of wine: 7 – 13 euros
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